Work in progress: self-drafted cigarette pants. They are waiting for the waistband to be added! Please, believe me, they look more beautiful up close. Yesterday I tried them on, and they fit perfectly!


I wanted to created slim (or cigarette) pants, something in between this Burdastyle version and Colette's  Clover.



If you'd like to draft the pattern for trousers by yourself, follow my tutorial. Today, we'll draft the back.

After you've finished drawing the front pattern, you will draft the back pattern over the top of it. Why, you ask? Because the basic frame for the front and the back is the same. Most of the alterations will take place between the waist and the crotch (we need to create more room for sitting and to accommodate our bottom!).



This is how the front looks. Next step will be modifying the part from the waist to the crotch.


CC₆ = 1 cm
C₃C₇ = 2 x CC₆
BB₂ = CC₆
B₂B₃ = BB₁ (=¼ waist measurement)
C₇C₈ = 0.5cm
C₉C₃ = C₃C₈
C₉C₁₀ = 3cm






Draw a line between C₈C₁₀
C₁₀ C₁₁ = 1.5cm



AA₆ = 3.2 cm
A₆A₇ = 1.8cm
Draw a line A₇B₂


C₅C₁₂ = 5cm
Draw a line connecting C₁₁, C₁₂ & B₂


A₇A₈ = ¼ waist measurement + 4.5cm (dart) + 0.25cm (ease) - 0.5cm (balance difference)
A₈A₉ = 0.5cm

If you look at the front part, we have added 0.5cm for balance .



Connect A₉B₃
You can draw a light line A₉A₇ for reference. Later on, you'll shape this line to accomodate darts.


D₁D₃ = D₂D₄ = 1cm
E₁E₃ = E₂E₄ = 1cm


Draw lines C₈E₄ & C₈B₃


Draw a line D₃E₃
Connect D₃ & C₁₁


A₇H₁ = 8cm
H₁H = HH₂ = 1.25cm
HH₃ = 12cm
H₂I = ½H₂A₉
II₁ = II₂ = 1cm
II₃ = 12cm


Now it's time to create a line line connecting A₉ with A₇ shaping both darts.


We have finished drafting the basic pants patten! We've got to create pockets and the sections for the fly and the waistband. But at this point, you can adjust this pattern to your desired style and create a muslin.


Using the previous pattern draft, copy the front and the back on separate sheets of paper.

In the next post, I'll show you how I adjusted the basic draft, fitted the muslin and step-by-step sewing instructions.

I hope you find this information useful! If there is anything you'd like to ask, please shoot :)

Yesterday I spotted this cute jersey black dress (on the left) @ All Saints sale. But, seriously, I am not paying $200 for a dress on sale which I can make myself for, at least, half the price. The Burdastyle  sheath dress pattern (on the right) offers slightly different neckline (which, on my opinion, is even more flattering), but overall looks as good as All Saints'.

That's one of the reasons why I started sewing! And you? 

Have you ever drafted a pants pattern? Before April this year I had no idea how to sew pants. I started my second year of patternmaking class at school with pants patterns and I am keen to document the entire process (from drafting the pattern to the fitting and sewing) and share it with you.

In this post, I'll show you the drafting method we are taught at school. I find it relatively easy and fun. Just don't be scared of all the letters and lines!

To start with, you need take a bunch of measurements:

• waist
• hip + 4 cm ease
• hip length (measurement from waist to hip)
• crotch depth
• knee length (from waist to knee)
• hemline circumference (length all the way around the hem at the bottom) 
• desired pants length (from the waist to where you want them to come down to)

With elastic around your waist, measure from the waist to where your botton touches the chair.

Alternatively, use a special ruler measure the crotch depth as pictured

2. It's essential to take the measurement around the heel and instep of your foot. If the botton seam of the pants is too tight, you won't be able to put them on. 


Once you've taken all the necessary measurements, we can start drafting. 


But before you start I wanna warn you: this is my very first tutorial and it's not perfect. Also, I am translating it from Japanese, and some words may sound confusing. Please forgive me in advance and if you find it difficult and confusing, don't hesitate to comment or email me. 


AB = hip length
AC = crotch depth
BB₁ = ¼ of hip measurement
CC₁ = AA₁ = BB₁
Draw the line A₁C₁
CC₂ = ⅓ CC₁
C₂C₃ = 1cm
AA₂ = CC₃
Draw the line A₂C₃



A₂D = knee length
A₂E = pants length
Connect A₂ all the way to E



AA₃ = 1cm
Draw the line A₃B
C₁C₄ = 0.5cm
C₅C₃ = C₄C₃
Draw the curve BC₅
A₃A₄ = ¼ waist measurement + 4cm (darts) + 0.25cm (ease) + 0.5cm (difference between front and back)
A₄A₅ = 0.5




Draw the curve A₅B₁


EE₁ = EE₂ = ¼hemline width - 0.5cm (difference between front and back)

Draw the curve B₁C₄
Draw the line E₁C₅



Draw the knee line D₁D₂

Adding darts



A₂F₁ = AF₂ = 1cm
A₂F₃ = 9cm


F₂G = ½  F₂A₅
GG₁ = GG₂ = 1cm
GG₃ = 9cm



 Now draw a beautiful line connecting all points from A₅ to A₃

This is how your final pattern draft should look. 

It's Umeshu (plum wine) time in Japan and all good housewives are rushing to the supermarkets to buy plums, alcohol and ice sugar (floating on the bottom of the jar). I followed the trend mainly because I love plum wine and not because I'm a good housewife.

Easy and cheap to make but 5 to 6 months to wait before it turn into a really delicious drink.

I've got the package full of things

Shame on me, I can't draw at all! The best thing I've ever drawn was a picture of imaginary galaxies when I was 5 or 6. Discovering this sketchbook was like a godsend!

The first pages of the notebook provide lots of useful information: body measurements, patterns and drawings of different types of clothing, fabric dictionary, laundry labels etc. And then many pages with female body templates to play with! I decided that by end of the year I should learn how to draw, but in the fashion business sketching is even more important!

As if by chance, this morning I saw this video in the Threads magasine, where an illustrator, Yelen Ayé, shows how to sketch! Seriously, ladies and gentlemen, I feel so enthusiastic to try!!!! I promise to show you the results even if they are hideous.

I am wondering, are there other sewing lovers out there who cannot draw?

Pattern: Origami skirt from Kleinformat
As the original pattern suggested stretch fabric, the belt was just simply cut from a rectangular piece of fabric and attached to the skirt. For cotton, I had to draft a belt myself, and it took me almost no time. I decided to make a high-waisted kinda '50s-looking belt, and I was pleased with the result at the end.

I also have to show off my beautiful sun-tan before it washes away, and a brand new haircut. My hair was chemically straightened because my curls and waves were driving me nuts and I did not know what to do with them, especially with hair as short as I like to have. For the past 2 summers in Tokyo, I constantly looked like a sheep. My hairdresser said that it'll remain like this for 5-6 month!!! Guys, that's the best thing I've done to my hair since cutting it off!!!!




But I made a huge mistake cutting the belt when my tummy was empty. After lunch in our favorite Thai restaurant, I had to breathe in for the photo-shoot ;) I'll increase the belt's circumference by 2-3 cm or so.

By the way, what's your favorite cuisine?

Yummy black noodles

Neve Tsedek neighborhood in Tel Aviv

Many old buildings in Neve Tsedek are now occupied by designer shops or restaurants

You'll find many restaurants like this in Jaffa's flee market area

You have guessed: this shop sells buttons

 My second favorite place after streets with fabric was Carmel market. You'll understand why.





2012 is a year of Art in Israel. You'll find pianos standing here and there around Tel Aviv and absolutely everybody can play! Good for the neighbors, they are locked during the night.

Now I am running to my sewing room after 3 weeks without sewing! I'll be back soon with new garments!

Do you also buy fabric when travelling?