Beading edge technology




Yves Saint Laurent's collection Winter '84-'85
A dream came true! As I mentioned in one of the previous posts, I was lucky enough to get in touch with Veronique who spent every evening of an entire week giving me private lessons in tambour embroidery

My main goal was to learn the maximum number of tambour embroidery techniques with a view to later integrating them into my future garments. Below, I have posted pictures featuring all the techniques I learnt. Unfortunately, I don't know their names in English since the lessons were in French and I am too lazy to spend time researching on the Internet. Hopefully the photos speak for themselves.


For those of you who don't know what tambour embroidery is, here is a little intro. Tambour embroidery, or la broderie de Lunéville (named after the town in France where a hook was first used to work with beads and sequins), is a type of embroidery done with a hook on a piece of fabric stretched on a frame. The embroiderer works on the wrong side of the fabric and the right side of the stitching is underneath. The stitches in tambour embroidery can be done with different types of thread - waxed cotton thread, twisted silk/polyester or metal thread. But tambour embroidery is mainly known for its techniques working with beads, sequins and rhinestones for haute couture. The most famous atelier (school) for tambour embroidery is Lesage, which was purchased by Chanel in 2002. 

One side of the fabric stretched on the wooden frame.
When you buy beads and sequins, they usually come threaded onto something called a pompon, which consists of 10 individual strands of thread tied together. On average, a pompon holds 10,000 sequins, or 1000-3000 beads depending on their size. When you begin embroidering a piece of fabric, you need to transfer the beads or sequins from the pompon onto a separate piece of working thread. 

One of the hardest things when embroidering with beads is that you don't really see them, unless you are working with transparent fabric like organza. 

Transferring beads to the working thread

 You can see the Atelier Lesage preparing for a Chanel show in the video below. 

 

I have to admit I was very lucky to have Veronique as a teacher. During the week of lessons, she taught me the basics and gave me as much information as possible to help me continue by myself in the future. At the end of our lessons, she treated me to a book about Lesage. I had no idea how valuable the book was! In turn, I want to treat you to some pics of gorgeous garments from the book.



Project for Jean-Louis Scherrer
Detail: Iris of Van Gogh,  Yves Saint Laurent, summer 1988
This entire garment took 600 hours of labor, 250,000 sequins in 22 colors, 200,000 beads and 250m of ribbon
Sorce: La Dulcie Vita
Personally, I find it hideous, but  in terms of craftsmanship it's a masterpiece! Jean-Paul Gaultier, winter 1989 
Detail from YSL's bolero (picture at the top of the page)


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'70s twist



Last month, I ordered three patterns from Style Arc: Jessica Dress, Danni Dolman and Layla Dress. And then a piece of fluoro 70's jersey knit from my stash was shouting, 'Pick me! Pick me!' In my head, the fabric matched the Jessica dress pattern perfectly and a minute later, I was ready to cut and slash and twist and sew!




Fabric: 1m80 of Jersey knit purchased in JoAnn during my trip to Minnesota
Size: 8
Cost: $15
Modifications to pattern: slightly shortened the ends of the "twist"



Before purchasing the patterns from StyleArc, I'd been hesitating for several days. The patterns they sell are size-specific instead of multi-size like most brands'. According to the size chart on StyleArc my upper body measurements are equivalent to a size 6, but my lower body measurements are a size 10! When facing such a choice, it's generally recommended to match the upper body as closely as possible to your real measurements, since the lower part of the pattern can be modified more easily. But I decided to go in between the two sizes and order the size 8. 


For this dress, I cut the skirt according to the size 8 pattern, which turned out to fit fine due to the stretch of the jersey fabric. For the bodice, if I had not shortened both ends of the twist, the neckline would have been super revealing! So by decreasing the length of the ends by 2 cm, I managed to keep my cleavage inside the dress.


Here I have tried to show you how almost perfectly I managed to match the stripes on the right side ;) Due to the original design of the skirt (four front tucks), it was difficult to make the stripes match along the left seam.

This dress has been promoted right away to my wardrobe favorites! I love the smoothness and lightness of the fabric against my body and the fact that it does not wrinkle. The fabric doesn't fray either, so the skirt and armholes are unhemmed.


A few more words about my experience with Style Arc... The pattern was hand drawn!!!! An envelope sent from Australia contained three A4 pockets, each of which included a thick sheet of paper with each pattern drafted by hand!!! I have no idea why Chloe does it manually as that seems to me like a hell of a lot of work, even if she has templates for each size and model in her shop! All of the patterns include seam allowance. Easy-to-follow, step-by-step drawings and explanations are printed on two additional A4 sheets. Another nice personal touch was that Chloe had glued a scrap of knit fabric as a suggestion.

Have your worked with Style Arc patterns?



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Sewing books: modern & retro styles



When I returned from my European holiday, two new sewing books were sitting on my desk: Home Sewn by New Zealand Fashion Museum and Gertie's New Book for Better sewing by Gretchen Hirsch. Whilst the latter is well-known and widely-discussed within the sewing community, the former probably remains unfamiliar to most. 

Home Sewn provides an insight into the history of home sewing in New Zealand and features prominent local designers. Various sections of the book explain the history of fashion in NZ, introduce local fashion designers and showcase some sewing techniques.

The transparent plastic cover protects the soft cover book. It looks classy, don't you think?
Dedicated to a new wave of fashion designers in New Zealand, the book features 10 young designers each of whom shared one pattern from their recent collection. Here are the links to the designers' websites: Company of StrangersCybeleKatie-Maree Cole, Lela JacobsPapercut PatternsStarfishTK Storetwenty-seven namesVaughan GeesonWORLD




No sewing book is complete without some explanation of sewing techniques 

This gorgeous jersey jumpsuit from TK Store caught my eye!



The only designer I'd heard of before I got the book. 
You can wear this dress in four different ways! The only problem: because of the dark color of fabric, it's impossible to see the lines on the garment


Love the print on this t-shirt



Most patterns shown in this book are quite easy to sew and suitable for beginners. If you are looking for a fresh and modern touch to your hand-made wardrobe, you will find lots of new additions: from skirts to trousers, from dresses to tops.

The verdict: this book is interesting, educational and definitely worth buying. We hear a lot about fashion from the US, Asia and Europe, but our attention turns rarely towards Australia and New Zealand. I find the attempt of the New Zealand Fashion Museum to promote local designers and shed the light into the country's fashion history remarkable. You can order it from Papercut Patterns website for NZ$45 + NZ$5 international shipping which converts to around €31.50 or $39.80 including shipping. Seriously, ladies, hurry up!

The second book needs less introduction. Many of us had been waiting for Gertie's New Book for Better Sewing since she announced it in 2011. Before I received the book, I got a sneak preview both from Gertie's blog and from bloggers in the US who bought it before me.


Because Gertie shares most of the garments on her blog, I just wanted to highlight my favorites which are now on my sewing 2012 list!



So pretty from the inside!




The Wiggle dress
OK, I am not a "retro" person, but I realized that my wardrobe lacks essential classics. Some people think that I dress like a teenage boy. With no prescribed dress code in my company, I come to the office in shorts/jeans and t-shirts almost every day. Until recently, I was never bothered about having a feminine look, but sewing has made me more and more aware of the beauty of a classic silhouette and simple lines. The styles featured in Gertie's book could not suit the purpose better.  

What is your style? Would you like to discover a new style for yourself? 


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Back to Paris!




For the third time this summer, I am packing to go away. This time, the destination is Paris. It has always been a love-hate relationship. Loving and fighting, singing and crying, we spent seven years together. I came to Paris from a foreign country, young and naive enough to still believe that all people are kind creatures.

I could easily write a book about my adventures and misadventures in Paris (just have to brush up my English or write it in French and translate).But if it weren't for the ups and downs I experienced in the French capital, I would have never become who I am today.

The aim of this post is not to tell you about my life, but what I'll be doing in Paris!

The main reason for my trip is a friend's wedding. In fact, the wedding will take place in Belgium. I am looking forward to the picturesque Flemish country-side! The dress which I am currently working on to wear to the wedding is almost finished!

But the wedding also gave me an excuse to stay in Paris more to learn tambour beading! Crochet embroidery has fascinated me for a while, but as with bra-making , I was scared that I would not be good enough at something so technically precise. After a few weeks of contemplation, I have decided to go for it!


My first idea was to sign-up for a few master classes at Lesage, the mecca of tambour embroidery. But it is, like most of the schools in France, closed for the summer holidays. Thank God for Google! The search pages introduced me to this amazing crafter, Véronique Richard. From what I had read on her site and her blog, she seemed a passionate artist and a lovely woman. So I emailed her and asked if she would be available for some intensive private lessons. And to my great surprise she answered positively! Can you believe, she's been kind enough to buy me all the equipment necessary for a beginner! Of course, I don't expect to become anywhere near as good as the great artists who create couture gowns for the catwalk défilés, but I would like to master some of the tambour beading techniques enough to incorporate them in my future garments. EXCITEDDDDDD!

I'll post more details about my lessons and share the results with you after my return in Tokyo, in the beginning of September. 
Do you also do embroidery? Have you tried tambour beading before? Would you be interested to know more about this style of embroidery?


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Shabby chic



Yesterday I went to see an exhibition of Japanese shabby textile. That's exactly what boro means - shabby. Boro was made of scraps of hemp fabric and worn mainly by peasants during Edo to Meiji periods in Japan. Imagine women keeping every scrap of fabric to make clothes and pass them to another generation?! Not a tiny bit of hemp was wasted; everything was good for a garment. That's the story of Boro; regular clothes from very poor Japanese families are today considered to be a form of art and national treasures.




Possession of scraps of fabric provided one's social status and wealth. Women who had over thousand scraps were the subject of great envy. Only last week I threw away ... how many... a hundred scraps maybe? 

The coat pictured below fulfilled the role of a blanket. An entire family would cover themselves during the night. People used to sleep naked not only because they had nothing to wear, but also to form a kind of human "radiator", drawing on each other's body temperatures to keep everybody warm. Considering the size of Japanese people 200-300 years ago, three or even four family members could easily be covered by these donja. The sleeping coat was literally keeping people together: people would not fight with each other knowing that they would spend a night hugging each other. In a way, I find this idea very cute!


Donja - sleeping coat


Even Japanese traditional shoes, tabi, were made with scraps of fabric. 



This rare piece is in fact female underwear. Women, often ashamed of keeping such an intimate item  for too long, often disposed of them instead of passing them down to the next generation. The top part of the underwear is made from very simple and plain fabric. Women tried to save the most beautiful piece of fabric for the bottom part, because it would be seen under their kimonos.


More sexy underwear!


These cute quilted pieces are diapers. Unlike the underwear, they would have been used for many babies Would you like to wash diapers by hand in cold water?!


 Guests were treated with great respect and the hosts spared the most beautiful donja for their guests.

Children's boro




People visiting the exhibition were allowed to touch the clothes. I took a close-up shot of this pair of trousers. Look at those stitches! Don't they remind you of something?


Exactly! The prick stitch and the catch stitch! Japanese women knew something of couture sewing!

The older generation in Japan often say "Mottainai!" which means "Too good (to be thrown away)." After I left the exhibition, I thought about how many things which were still good to use I have thrown away; how many useless things I have bought, and how many scraps of fabric have I wasted?

What's the most innovative recycled garment you've seen?


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Quick project: Summer top



I'm blaming the summer heat for working on simple projects! But I promise, two more complex garments are waiting in my sewing room: the Starlet Jacket and a silk maxi dress

Yet more garments from the Japanese sewing book かんたん,かわいい.まっすぐソーイング (Easy, cute. Sewing in a straight line).  


I used a piece of silk bought at Marché St.Pierre in Paris five years ago. It was about time to transform it into something wearable. One hour and the top was done! All the lines were indeed straight ;) 





After work - a nice reward in the form of a Vietnamese sandwich and 333 beer ;). This cute creature is a mascot of the sandwich shop.


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