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What happens in Baltimore
| On the way to Baltimore |
On the very first day of our French jacket seminar, the entire sewing group went to Mendel Goldberg Fabric store in New York. I popped in there just for a few minutes because I knew that despite the gorgeous fabrics you find in the store, the prices are extremely hight and start from $100 a yard (not even a metre!). My heart stopped beating for a few moments when I laid my eyes on the amazing fabric in this store, but it was too much for my budget. Instead, I went to B&J where I bought this lovely summer tweed for a jacket and skirt (3 yards) and crêpe-de-chine (4 yards) for a reasonable $200 in total. Well, I totally understand that Mendel Goldberg sell exquisite luxurious fabric from Dior, Chanel etc, but what I got was pretty much comparable in quality. After lunch, our group stopped at M&J Trimming to add trimms and buttons to our shopping bags.
My inspiration for the jacket (young, vibrant and happy) came from the Channel Resort 2012 collection and a piece in Burdastyle 02/2013 #107.
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What attracted me most in these designs was the nice balance of neckline and hemline: casual and relaxed yet elegant and feminine. Let's see what happens at the first fitting!
Pencil skirt - Part II
Yesterday, I worked on my pencil skirt until past midnight - but still didn't manage to finish it. Lots and lots of hand work which, even if repetitive, requires some concentration. Here's what I managed to accomplish by the end of the day:
- I pinned Petersham ribbon around my waist to determine the length of the waistband.
- Using the Petersham ribbon as interfacing, I basted it to the fashion fabric wrong side up.
- Right sides together, I basted the waistband to the skirt. Then I stitched it with my machine (this was the only seam which I machine stitched; all other seams were made by hand).
- I pressed the seam towards the band, folded the raw edge inside and, using fell stitches, sewed the folded edge to the seamline.
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| The drawing from the book illustrating the technique which I used |
So far my skirt is unhemmed and I need to finish the waistband by adding hooks and eyes, but I am so proud of the outcome that I can't help sharing it with you!
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| Hand-picked zipper from the inside |
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| Outside view. Even though the waistband is not completely finished, I am very satisfied with the end result. |
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| Fell stitched waistband with remaining basting |
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| Right side of the waistband: OMG I love this fabric! |
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| Waistband from the front. |
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| Still deciding on the length |
Unfortunately this skrit has to wait two more weeks because in just a few hours I am flying to New York and then to Baltimore to join Susan Khalje's French jacket seminar! After the seminar I'll spend a week with a friend from Susan's class who lives in Canada! More to come...
Oh, a pencil skirt!
It seems like these days everybody is crazy about By Hand London, and I can see why. Simple yet classic designs, cool girls behind the brand, patterns created with love and care - a perfect addition to the band of indie pattern designers! I do love their patterns and especially their own interpretations: I love the fabric they use and the images they create with their photos! The prices are also quite reasonable given that the brand is new: I would definitely buy those patterns! Seeking to feminize and refresh my wardrobe, I've been craving for a pencil skirt - and the Charlotte skirt with peplum from By Hand London set my imagination alight. Besides, this gorgeous taffeta purchased last year from Mood Fabric was begging to become a pencil skirt! How could I refuse?
But instead of buying the pattern, I've drafted it! Earlier this year, I committed to drafting more patterns vs. purchasing them (even for the sake of indie designers). My current pattern library is way too full. One day, having sorted through what I had, I realized that many patterns repeat themselves, and they are easy to draft!
Don't you also find that drafting patterns not only reduces the number of junk things in your boxes but also contributes to the acquisition and perfection of new skills?! Since we studied skirts in my pattern-making class two years ago, I already had a sloper. A couple of adjustments and the pattern was ready in no time!
I sewed this skirt applying couture techniques learnt with Susan Khalje last year in Baltimore and watching her course on Craftsy.
The choice of silk organza as underlining was obvious: this taffeta is sort of stiff, but is very thin and wrinkles easily. Organza, treated with my fashion fabric as one layer, adds a little more weight to the lightweight fabric and results in a better-looking finished garment. How often do you see a RTW silk or any other lightweight fabric garment which ends up looking like a sausage?! Well, underlining prevents this effect.
Another great quality of underlining: it helps to conquer wrinkles! Despite being a lightweight fabric as well, silk organza is very tough. Organza strips are often used as stays: they are difficult to break but are flexible by nature. And that is why I used them to reinforce the corners of the vent in my skirt!
I cut four pieces of silk organza and sewed them on to cover the corners. Now I am not afraid to take long strides and hear the "crack" of ripped seams. The organza scraps will keep my seams in place!
Have you also noticed how I attached the pieces of organza? I sewed them into the underlining! If the skirt was not underlined, I would have had trouble attaching the pieces of organza and the stitches would probably have shown through.
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Lingerie knit kit
No, this time I won't show you my butt! Some time ago when I was searching for some interesting knitting projects, I came across Danish Knit Design and their Charlotte lingerie kit. And I was smitten.
Danish Knit Design is a small family business run by a mother and daughter living in Denmark and the US who share a love for the tradition of Scandinavian knitting design.When I think that in the past (way before the Internet era and the beginning of mass production), most businesses were family-run and nurtured tradition, I wish I could travel back in time and see what it was like.
It took me several days to pick a pattern: both Charlotte and Louise were screaming from the screen "Pick me!". But since the winter's almost gone, Charlotte seemed a more appropriate choice. At the moment, I am not sure whether I'd wear it as pajamas or actual underwear, but I am pretty much excited to start knitting! And Louise can wait for later.
The yarn that came with the pattern is made of wool and silk. I picked the smoky gray yarn out of the four colors suggested by the designers. The soft thread reminded me of touching a fluffy puppy; oh, can't I just knit all day instead of going to the office tomorrow?!
I also wanted to share with you my favorite activity since the end of last year: Coursera! From the statement on their website, they are a "social entrepreneurship company that partners with the top universities in the world to offer courses online for anyone to take, for free". They offer a wide range of courses from Maths to Humanities to Philosophy to Computer Science. If you, like me, are thirsty for knowledge and curious to learn new things, Coursera is for you! Of course, not all of the courses are great (I've dropped out from two) but since it's free, everyone can explore find the right combination of topic and teacher suitable for the. The great thing is that some of the courses can be perfectly combined with crafting!
Do you have experience knitting underwear? Have you taken any interesting courses online, craft-related or otherwise?
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| Charlotte lingerie kit |
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| Luise lingerie kit |
The yarn that came with the pattern is made of wool and silk. I picked the smoky gray yarn out of the four colors suggested by the designers. The soft thread reminded me of touching a fluffy puppy; oh, can't I just knit all day instead of going to the office tomorrow?!
I also wanted to share with you my favorite activity since the end of last year: Coursera! From the statement on their website, they are a "social entrepreneurship company that partners with the top universities in the world to offer courses online for anyone to take, for free". They offer a wide range of courses from Maths to Humanities to Philosophy to Computer Science. If you, like me, are thirsty for knowledge and curious to learn new things, Coursera is for you! Of course, not all of the courses are great (I've dropped out from two) but since it's free, everyone can explore find the right combination of topic and teacher suitable for the. The great thing is that some of the courses can be perfectly combined with crafting!
Bordeaux & beige "wild" lingerie set
This my first blog post in a couple of weeks, most of which I spent with my mom. Having been diagnosed with breast cancer at the end of last year, she recently successfully underwent surgery where the doctor removed her left breast and replaced it with a silicon boob. Luckily, she's doing great after the surgery but a year of chemo is still ahead. Since learning about her illness, I have felt very motivated to improve my lingerie-sewing skills hoping to sew some cute custom-made bras for her one day.
I made this lingerie set from Merckwaerdigh supplies. Both the lingerie kit and the pattern MIX30I were purchased from their eBay shop. They also sell supplies and patterns on Etsy with slightly different offers.
Speaking of lingerie, I am a big fun of cotton sporty type underwear and never wear lace. This time, the choice of fabric for the set was a bit extreme but intentional - I decided to sex up my underwear!
In the past, I already made a bra using Pin-up Gils Classic Bra #1230 and I would have continued wearing it had my breast cage not widened because of yoga. For the new bra, I cut a longer band so that if my breast cage becomes narrower in the future it'll be easy to alter. Regarding the size, my previous bra was a 34A, but the new bra was cut as a 32B.
A few other modifications were applied for this set:
Following the suggestions from the pattern, I cut the panties in a M, but it should clearly have been a L. Luckily, there's still some fabric for one or even two more pairs!
As the next step in my lingerie-making journey, I'll try to draft my own underwear patterns. I am currently working with Patternmaking for Underwear Design by Kristina Shin and I hope to be able to show you some results in April.
P.S. I've never posted pictures of myself in my underwear before, but wanted to show how it sits on a real person! *Embarrassed*
I made this lingerie set from Merckwaerdigh supplies. Both the lingerie kit and the pattern MIX30I were purchased from their eBay shop. They also sell supplies and patterns on Etsy with slightly different offers.
Speaking of lingerie, I am a big fun of cotton sporty type underwear and never wear lace. This time, the choice of fabric for the set was a bit extreme but intentional - I decided to sex up my underwear!
In the past, I already made a bra using Pin-up Gils Classic Bra #1230 and I would have continued wearing it had my breast cage not widened because of yoga. For the new bra, I cut a longer band so that if my breast cage becomes narrower in the future it'll be easy to alter. Regarding the size, my previous bra was a 34A, but the new bra was cut as a 32B.
A few other modifications were applied for this set:
- Since my left breast is smaller, I reduced the left cup - an easy modification due to the princess seam
- I added 1.5 cm to the bridge because, as you can see from the picture below, the distance between my breasts is quite significant
- The bra is wired and it feels quite comfortable
- I added less lace to the panties because I am just only converting into a lace-gal
Following the suggestions from the pattern, I cut the panties in a M, but it should clearly have been a L. Luckily, there's still some fabric for one or even two more pairs!
As the next step in my lingerie-making journey, I'll try to draft my own underwear patterns. I am currently working with Patternmaking for Underwear Design by Kristina Shin and I hope to be able to show you some results in April.
P.S. I've never posted pictures of myself in my underwear before, but wanted to show how it sits on a real person! *Embarrassed*
Danni Dolman Dress revisited
This time, the Danni Dolman dress from Style Arc is made from a gorgeous panel knit jersey from Tesutti Fabric. I decided to cut the fabric so that the bodice remains less print heavy. Needless to say, the girl in the picture is pretty happy with the end result!
This fabric was sitting in my stash for several months waiting for the perfect project: the Danni dress. I would put it on for work/party/after-party! I would wear it all year long with different tights, bangles, scarves and earrings. I intentionally avoided the back seam featured in the pattern. If it were closer-fitting, I would not like it as much. But maybe with your critical eye you think otherwise?
Quick-project-therapy did its job and I am ready to go back to my UFO! *SIGH*
Last week, I made a muslin out of another piece of knit jersey. A couple of modifications that I carried over to the dress: I added 10cm to both the skirt and the sleeves.
Being slightly heavier than the muslin fabric, the Tesutti fabric drapes much better and has a better stretch.
The little flowers on the top create such a gentle touch! I put on several necklaces to see how it'd look, but none of them went really well with the dress.
This fabric was sitting in my stash for several months waiting for the perfect project: the Danni dress. I would put it on for work/party/after-party! I would wear it all year long with different tights, bangles, scarves and earrings. I intentionally avoided the back seam featured in the pattern. If it were closer-fitting, I would not like it as much. But maybe with your critical eye you think otherwise?
Quick-project-therapy did its job and I am ready to go back to my UFO! *SIGH*
3D dress (Danni Dolman Dress)
At the beginning of January, Sarai from coletterie.com wrote about her wardrobe inventory and inspired me to do something similar.
Yesterday I worked on the muslin for a 3D dress (Danni Dolman Dress) from Style Arc as a first step in my mission.
This pattern is so easy, I could have drawn it myself. But I had already purchased it anyway. Cutting the fabric and sewing it together took me approximately one hour. Completing a project so fast boosted my confidence after spending days working on the Matthew Williamson dress!
Earlier this morning, I gave the muslin a test run. Whilst hanging out in Harajuku, we noticed a lovely photo spot ^^
As I mentioned, this is only a muslin; not a "real" dress. Even from the photos, you can see that this purple jersey is pretty thin and saggy. I can put it on to wear at home, go out for a quick shopping trip or late-night drinks with friends and hopefully nobody will see the imperfections. A proper version will be made from this more solid and heavier panel jersey knit purchased at Tesutti Fabric.
The 3D dress covers two essential points from my 2013 challenge: comfortable and classic. Also, I just love sewing with knits; they don't crumble, they need less fitting and they are super comfy to wear!
An interesting observation after my sewing couture seminar with Susan Khalje: on all six days of the seminar, all of the students (plus Susan) wore knits on a daily basis! Nothing more to add to that :)
Regarding the design, I avoided the back seam as I thought it unnecessary.
Do you also work on quick projects as motivation/to encourage yourself?
I've been thinking what if, from this year on, I start working on a more consistent but also more "grown up" wardrobe. Sounds like a lot of work to me, but I am ready to take on the challenge!
Yesterday I worked on the muslin for a 3D dress (Danni Dolman Dress) from Style Arc as a first step in my mission.
This pattern is so easy, I could have drawn it myself. But I had already purchased it anyway. Cutting the fabric and sewing it together took me approximately one hour. Completing a project so fast boosted my confidence after spending days working on the Matthew Williamson dress!
Earlier this morning, I gave the muslin a test run. Whilst hanging out in Harajuku, we noticed a lovely photo spot ^^
As I mentioned, this is only a muslin; not a "real" dress. Even from the photos, you can see that this purple jersey is pretty thin and saggy. I can put it on to wear at home, go out for a quick shopping trip or late-night drinks with friends and hopefully nobody will see the imperfections. A proper version will be made from this more solid and heavier panel jersey knit purchased at Tesutti Fabric.
The 3D dress covers two essential points from my 2013 challenge: comfortable and classic. Also, I just love sewing with knits; they don't crumble, they need less fitting and they are super comfy to wear!
An interesting observation after my sewing couture seminar with Susan Khalje: on all six days of the seminar, all of the students (plus Susan) wore knits on a daily basis! Nothing more to add to that :)
Regarding the design, I avoided the back seam as I thought it unnecessary.
Do you also work on quick projects as motivation/to encourage yourself?































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